8-5-10
Thursday 7-29-10
We rode to Umatilla, 56 miles. Spent the night in my tent at the fair grounds. Woke up to two flat tires. Ended up fixing both before getting down the road. Had to change another one later. In the evening Larry presented me with 2 puncture resistant tubes. Many thanks for them. These are tubes with about 1/8 thick rubber on the outside. Came in handy a couple days later when I picked up some tire scrap, steel belt wires are bad, go right through tires. Umitilla is a heavily hispanic town, we guess for picking crops - Onions are a big one. The hotel clerk where we rent 4 rooms, was not very friendly. As Cecil put it some people are in the business of renting rooms, others, providing hospitality. This place did an exceptional job of just renting rooms.
8-6-10
Friday 7-30-10
We rode from Umitilla to Biggs outside of Marydale, 83 miles of 10 to 15 MPH head wind, 90+ deg heat and ended with a big hill. Neat area, there was a reproduction of Stone Hinge which we visited on the way in to the Mary Hill SP. This was probably the hardest day of the ride thus far due to the constant head wind. From our experience the next day and what locals said we were lucky to face just 10 to 15 mph winds, 30+ are more typical. There were no services between Umitilla and Biggs except about 1/2 way in West Roosevelt which is where there is a small restaurant, the road up to the plateau where they haul wind turbins up, 2 sets of blades and a top and 1 piece of a tower had passed us on the way. You really notice them when they go by you when you are on a bike. The blades are around 160 ft long. This is also where there is a train yard where they break up trains to go over the mountains I am guessing. Lots of containers.
We all had lunch in West Roosevelt then headed out. The vans, Larry and the red van pulling the trailer, stopped every 5 miles for people to get water and rest a little.
When we finally got to Umitilla we meet up with a family, some of us had meet earlier on the ride. It is a husband and wife, 2 older boys in college and just graduated and a couple of teens, 15 year old girl and what looked like a 16 or 17 year old boy. They are from Colorado Springs and never ridden much. They bought bikes on line had them delivered to Bal Harbour Maine. They flew out in mid May I believe, put them together and started riding self contained. Very bold move. They finished in Seaside a day or two infront of us. Selling the bikes on Craigs list and driving back to Colorado Springs.
Our friends the Murrs are behind our group a few days. They rested in Missoula a few days, leaving there last Monday. They need to be back in MO Aug 15 for Jane to start kindergarden Monday the 16th.
Sat. 7-31-10
We rode today from Biggs OR to Bingen WA, across the Columbia from Hood River OR. We rode 56 ml today in a fierce head wind. It was cloudy most of the day so that helped a lot. We all made it okay but it took some time for such a relatively short distance. We got into Hood River around 3:30. We had to be ferried over the bridge (toll with steel mesh decking and narrow) in the vans and RV to the WA side.
We stayed at our first hostel, a new experience for me. It was what I expected, bunk beds in a large room that was split up by partial walls with a couple of bunks in each area. Had small private shower stalls. A new experience. We stayed in our next hostel the following night, much different.
Sun. 8-1-10
This is a rest day. Lori had set up for us to go on the Hood River Railroad 4 hour train ride up toward Mt. Hood. It was very relaxing. I think we all slept during some part of the ride. It ended at a small town called Parkland, where we had a picnic and celebrated William Clarks birthday. Made for a very relaxing day after 2 really hard days of riding.
Monday 8-2-10
We rode From Hood River to Troutdale which is on the east side of Portland along much of the Columbia Gorge Scenic HWY. This was one of the prettiest days of the trip. We rode 55 miles. Started the day with 11 miles on I 84 which definitely had some wind, but then switched over to the frontage roads and highway. The highway was built back in 1914-15 from Portland to the Dalles. Some of it is gone due to construction of other highways, some is just bike path and some has been widened and open for cars again. It was built for people to come and see the gorge and it’s natural beauty. It was ahead of it’s time. It goes by several water falls and has a couple high overlooks, Rowena and Vista House ( a building, actually built by the county on this one high out crop). The climbs to these outlooks was not bad because the engineering. Hill and Lancaster had gone to Europe to study how roads over the mountains had been built there. The grades were long with many switchbacks but fairly gradual at only 5 or 6%. It was very lovely and peaceful as there were not many cars taking advantage of these sites.
We ended the day on a nice long down hill without wind (didn’t have to pedal downhill like some previous days) that took us into Troutdale where we stayed at Edge Field McMenamins Hostel. It is a large complex that was once a home/farm for the indigent. This was quite the place. We did all sleep in a large room with bunks. They had very nice private full bathrooms to use, a hot springs type pool to soak in with rock and torches around it, robes to wear to and from the pool, several restaurants on site to eat at. The help was all very accommodating. All for $30, a very good value.
Tuesday 8-3-10
Today we had a guided tour around the outskirts of Portland mostly on bike paths lead by John and Ed. Then onto US 30 again to Clatskanie City Park on the west side of Portland. we did a pretty easy - flat, minimal wind 78 miles. It did end with a pretty steep and long 3 mile climb, but then an equally steep decent into Clatskanie.
We camped in the city park which was getting ready to host a Bluegrass Festival starting the next day so it was pretty busy. We walked around town some, then went to bed.
Wednesday 8-4-10
Today we rode from Clatskanie to Astoria, about 38 miles with our last really big hill outside Clatskanie. We spent the night in a B&B, Clemintines. We couldn’t check until after 3 so we all spent time at a brew pub (Ft George Brewery) where we got a lesson on brewing beer. learned about making the wort, then the fermentation etc. They had a real nice bakery next to it (Scorched Bakery) with some nice artisan breads. We had 6 guys in our set of rooms with 3 beds. I ended up on the floor. Had a nice breakfast though.
We all drove in the vans to the WA side to see Point Dissappointment where L&C originally headed when they got to the mouth of the Columbia Nov 10th 1805. They got stuck in a little cove by a fierce storm for several days. They almost starved to death and from exposure except for some Indians with the right kind of canoes and skills brought them food to tide them through a couple days until the storm cleared. They then paddled back up stream to a point where the water wasn’t so rough and came up the south side and around the mouth to what became Ft Clatsop. (We visited it on the next day on our way to Seaside). The ranger kept the museum open for us to look at the L&C exhibits. Very nice museum.
Thursday 8-5-10 The last day :(
Today is a short day from Astoria to Seaside, about 30 ml. Cecil, whose wife’s mother lived in Seaside, lead the way. The final destination for L&C, to winter over at was at Ft. Clatsop, between Astoria and Seaside. They did send 3 guys to what is Seaside today to make salt for the return trip. We had a special presentation for our group by the park staff at Ft. Clatsop SP and saw a couple of movies. They have a reproduction of the fort with people dressed in the period - mainly buck skins. They did a flag raising for which a guy in the crowd was a bugler and brought out his bugle and played the Stars Bangle Banner for the raising. Then a guy later did a demonstration of the flint lock musket and other weapons they brought and their purposes. Lewis brought an air rifle (worked on compressed air). It wasn’t very useful as a hunting weapon but it never failed to impress the natives and demonstrate the American know how.
When we got to Seaside, Cecil treated everyone to lunch at the restaurant his mother in law had and he helped run after she passed away, Norma’s. It was wonderful.
That evening Lori had arranged for a dinner at McKeon’s in Seaside where we looked at pictures from last year (rode the first half the route to Ft. Peck MT) and this year. We all took a quiz, Lori had put together matching events to places on our trip this year. It was a good time.
The trip was a great adventure with a wonderful group of people the 2nd half. They will be missed. The oldest person was Vern at 78, who rode the whole way over all the passes. The average age, not including the kids was 62 years.
Mileage totals for the trip are
We rode a total of 900 miles on the first half, before joining the group, May 31st to July 8th. and 1013 miles with the group. July 10th to August 5th
Rode Alton, IL to Bismark ND on the 1st half, with a couple interruptions. Ft. Benton to Seaside OR, on the second half.
Rode:
May 31 to June 6th with Marta and the pop up,
June 6 to June 11, me and the kids self contained (Booneville MO to Smithville MO outside Kansas City) with my bike and the tandem and trailer ( went to Aimee’s for the weekend)
June 15 to 17th Missouri Valley IA to Souix City IA (Marta picked up went to Dayton)
June 22 to June 28, Souix City to Pierre SD (Mary & Bob dropped me off 21st, Flew to Dayton on the 29th)
July 4th to July 8th Pierre SD to Bismark ND (fly back to Pierre on 3rd, get picked up by Lori on July 8th)
Start biking morning of July 10th from Ft. Benton MT, finish in Seaside OR Aug. 5th
I met Marta in Bozeman, courtesy of a ride from Larry headed back to Pierre Juy 18. We went up to Missoula, got the bike fixed on the 19th, and drove to Wayfare SP in Three Rivers MT(?) near Kalispel, 20th drove up to Glacier and hiked Lost lake trail at Logans pass then had dinner at Desi and Brads. July 21 drove back to the group in Lolo Hot Springs at the base of Lolo Pass. Marta and kids headed back to IL Wed the 28th got home Sat afternoon.
Total for the 9 weeks is 1913 miles.
Trivia and Truisms
1. Bikes like to get as far away from traffic as possible, if they are in the road or near the white line they have a good reason.
2. Bikers are people too, husbands, wives, mothers and fathers. Pull over as much as possible. If you can’t don’t pass.
3. Bikers check your mirrors, if an “Oversized Load” lead car passes you look back quick and get over.
4. Don’t race dogs, they don’t like mace - a lot. Westerners take better care of their dogs, don’t let them run into traffic / chase bikes. Only had 2 issues, both in MO.
5. Worst drivers from my experience are in IA (ironically, home of RAGBRI) or MT. MT drivers just in a hurry and will not slow down regardless.
6. Truckers generally are the best about passing and pulling over. RV drivers pulling something the worst.
7. Most common road kill on the first half of trip turtles and pheasant, 2nd half, deer.
8. Tire debris the worst to run over, little wires go right through tires and tubes.
9. Most common debris, besides tire debris, broken black bunge cords
10. Most common hubcaps - the little round ones, especially out west. 3 or 4 a day at least it seemed.
11. Beavers don’t stop growing as they age. Older the beaver, the bigger it is.
Will try to add pictures later
Thanks for following our adventure. It is a great way to see America, the country and the people.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Wednesday 7-28-10
Time flies when you are biking.
Thursday 7-22-10
We made it to Lolo Hot Springs which is up the pass a little. We rode 83 miles over Lolo pass to Lowell ID. It wasn’t quite as bad as Lemhi.
Stopped in Powell ID for a breakfast. A couple of motorcycles were there and left shortly after we got there. As we continued up the rode came upon an accident. One of the motorcycles had slide on some gravel on the rode and thrown the riders off and the cycle landed on one of the riders killing him. Very sad. You never know. It put a damper on the day.
It was otherwise a beautiful ride, with little head wind. Looked for our neighbors house which he lived in prior to moving back to IL. It is somewhere on the road up to the summit.
Friday 7-23-10
We rode from Lowell to Kamaih. only 33 miles. Marta rode with me on the tandem the whole way. Stopped in the middle of nowhere at a house that had a gift shop and expresso bar in it. A pleasant surprise. Had a nice chat with the family.
At Kamaih Marta and I drove up a back road about 19 miles to some falls on the Selway River. Beautiful, a nice side trip.
Saturday 7-24-10
Today we rode from Kamaih to Winchester, only 44 miles, very hot, but not much wind.
The mountains are going away, giving way to open plains full of pasture and some wheat fields. Had a few good hills. Emma rode on “Sunny”, Lynn’s (Marta’s friend in Bozeman) yellow bike. about 20 miles in the heat, luckily only one big hill early on. We ended up cooling down and waiting in Green Creek for Marta. I rode on from there to Winchester. Marta scoped out the Winchester State Park and got Andrew and Cole fishing. They caught I think about 6 fish. fortunately Cole knew how to clean them for the most part.
Sunday 7-25-10
We rode 38 miles to Lewiston. We were into Lewiaston by 11:30 before the heat set in (100 deg F +) About 6 of us left as a group and rode Winchester Rd to the first little town - Cul de Sac. It was mostly a long down him with switchbacks. It was wonderful. The view at the top just outside Winchester a few miles was spectacular. We could see all the way to the out skirts of Lewiston and the plains beyond in eastern Washington.
We worked at mostly staying cool the rest of the day. we stayed at Hellsgate State Park, nice but not as nice as Winchester.
Monday was a rest day and we, Marta and the kids and I went about 2 hours south to Riggins ID on the Salmon river to do some white water rafting. Went down White Bear grade, to get there. Very glad we weren’t biking up it. They had 3 runaway truck ramps going down to give you an idea how long and step it is.
They had several historical markers along the way. Most were regarding the Nez Pierce who got a raw deal from the government regarding the treaties. They were a very advanced and a wise society. One chief was named Lawyer by fur trappers because of his gift for languages and his eloquence at speaking. He knew english before the missionaries arrived, I guess learning from trappers. worked with missionaries to create a Nez Pierce dictionary.
The rafting was okay with a few small class IV spots and several clas 2 and 3’s. We all got a little wet. The river was at about 8,500 CFM (cubic feet per minute) versus 90,000 during spring run off. The Salmon is the longest free flowing river (no dams) in the US, about 479 miles.
Tuesday 7-27-10
We were scheduled to ride from Lewiston to Pomeroy WA about 35 miles. with a big hill coming out of Lewiston to get up on the plateau (about 11 miles long and steep at the end). Luckily it was a cloudy day with actually some rain at the top. We stopped and had lunch and tour at a restored flour mill in Parathway (spelled wrong). It was driven by water and built around 1890. They had an extensive camera collection dating back to 1900 and before. Very interesting. The cost of lunch (very good), was whatever you wanted to give. Marta drove on in search of a better place top stay than what Pomeray had. I started biking thinking we would be staying about 40 miles down the road west of Dayton a pretty historic town at Lewis and Clark State Park. Turns out to be not very nice. The first 25 miles out of Pomeray was down hill and I did under threat of rain in about 75 minutes. My kind of road. Then I hit a big hill, 8 miles with the last 3 a 7% grade. Made it up then down hill for about 5 miles into Dayton. I meet Marta and the kids there and jumped in thew car and started looking for someplace to camp. Ended up about 30 miles down the road in Walla Walla at the Walla Walla Vineyard Inn ($72). Rode a total of 66 miles, with 2 good hills at either end.
Wednesday 7-28-10 today
Spent the day getting Marta and the kids down the road and caught up with emails and the blog. It’s been drizzling out all day off and on. May experience my first night in the tent with rain. Camping out at the fairgrounds, hopefully have a pavilion with a dirt floor (need to stake my tent for it to stay up). Tomorrow on to Umatilla OR.
Time flies when you are biking.
Thursday 7-22-10
We made it to Lolo Hot Springs which is up the pass a little. We rode 83 miles over Lolo pass to Lowell ID. It wasn’t quite as bad as Lemhi.
Stopped in Powell ID for a breakfast. A couple of motorcycles were there and left shortly after we got there. As we continued up the rode came upon an accident. One of the motorcycles had slide on some gravel on the rode and thrown the riders off and the cycle landed on one of the riders killing him. Very sad. You never know. It put a damper on the day.
It was otherwise a beautiful ride, with little head wind. Looked for our neighbors house which he lived in prior to moving back to IL. It is somewhere on the road up to the summit.
Friday 7-23-10
We rode from Lowell to Kamaih. only 33 miles. Marta rode with me on the tandem the whole way. Stopped in the middle of nowhere at a house that had a gift shop and expresso bar in it. A pleasant surprise. Had a nice chat with the family.
At Kamaih Marta and I drove up a back road about 19 miles to some falls on the Selway River. Beautiful, a nice side trip.
Saturday 7-24-10
Today we rode from Kamaih to Winchester, only 44 miles, very hot, but not much wind.
The mountains are going away, giving way to open plains full of pasture and some wheat fields. Had a few good hills. Emma rode on “Sunny”, Lynn’s (Marta’s friend in Bozeman) yellow bike. about 20 miles in the heat, luckily only one big hill early on. We ended up cooling down and waiting in Green Creek for Marta. I rode on from there to Winchester. Marta scoped out the Winchester State Park and got Andrew and Cole fishing. They caught I think about 6 fish. fortunately Cole knew how to clean them for the most part.
Sunday 7-25-10
We rode 38 miles to Lewiston. We were into Lewiaston by 11:30 before the heat set in (100 deg F +) About 6 of us left as a group and rode Winchester Rd to the first little town - Cul de Sac. It was mostly a long down him with switchbacks. It was wonderful. The view at the top just outside Winchester a few miles was spectacular. We could see all the way to the out skirts of Lewiston and the plains beyond in eastern Washington.
We worked at mostly staying cool the rest of the day. we stayed at Hellsgate State Park, nice but not as nice as Winchester.
Monday was a rest day and we, Marta and the kids and I went about 2 hours south to Riggins ID on the Salmon river to do some white water rafting. Went down White Bear grade, to get there. Very glad we weren’t biking up it. They had 3 runaway truck ramps going down to give you an idea how long and step it is.
They had several historical markers along the way. Most were regarding the Nez Pierce who got a raw deal from the government regarding the treaties. They were a very advanced and a wise society. One chief was named Lawyer by fur trappers because of his gift for languages and his eloquence at speaking. He knew english before the missionaries arrived, I guess learning from trappers. worked with missionaries to create a Nez Pierce dictionary.
The rafting was okay with a few small class IV spots and several clas 2 and 3’s. We all got a little wet. The river was at about 8,500 CFM (cubic feet per minute) versus 90,000 during spring run off. The Salmon is the longest free flowing river (no dams) in the US, about 479 miles.
Tuesday 7-27-10
We were scheduled to ride from Lewiston to Pomeroy WA about 35 miles. with a big hill coming out of Lewiston to get up on the plateau (about 11 miles long and steep at the end). Luckily it was a cloudy day with actually some rain at the top. We stopped and had lunch and tour at a restored flour mill in Parathway (spelled wrong). It was driven by water and built around 1890. They had an extensive camera collection dating back to 1900 and before. Very interesting. The cost of lunch (very good), was whatever you wanted to give. Marta drove on in search of a better place top stay than what Pomeray had. I started biking thinking we would be staying about 40 miles down the road west of Dayton a pretty historic town at Lewis and Clark State Park. Turns out to be not very nice. The first 25 miles out of Pomeray was down hill and I did under threat of rain in about 75 minutes. My kind of road. Then I hit a big hill, 8 miles with the last 3 a 7% grade. Made it up then down hill for about 5 miles into Dayton. I meet Marta and the kids there and jumped in thew car and started looking for someplace to camp. Ended up about 30 miles down the road in Walla Walla at the Walla Walla Vineyard Inn ($72). Rode a total of 66 miles, with 2 good hills at either end.
Wednesday 7-28-10 today
Spent the day getting Marta and the kids down the road and caught up with emails and the blog. It’s been drizzling out all day off and on. May experience my first night in the tent with rain. Camping out at the fairgrounds, hopefully have a pavilion with a dirt floor (need to stake my tent for it to stay up). Tomorrow on to Umatilla OR.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
7-18-10
7-13-10 The boat tour of the Gates of the Mountains was a wonderful trip. Stephanie Ambrosse Tubbs, author and daughter of Steven Ambrose author of “Undaunting Courage” - a book on the Lewis & Clark trip. The boat ride was spectacular going down the narrow river, the Missouri that cuts through the mountains.
Wednesday 7-14-10
Today we rode to Three Forks (65 miles) where the Jefferson (has by far the most flow, we would call it the Missouri, figure they had to name something after the president), the Madison (secretary of State) and about a mile down river the Galiton (secretary of Treasury) come together. We rode in the RV out to where the Jefferson and Madison come together to form the Missouri. This was the first day we saw snow capped mountains.
Thursday 7-15-10
We rode from Three Forks to Whitehall (32 miles) a small town on the way to Dillon MT. This was a nice short day but had a head wind slight up hill.
Friday 7-16-10
We rode to Dillon MT, (55 miles) all day head wind. Long day, stopped in the small town of Silver Star. Had a neat store ( 1 of 2) with lots of books on survival, history and nature. The other store had nicknacks with very interesting and expensive clocks. There was a lot of talk about who was riding up out first pass - Lemhi, 7373 ft and who was riding down, Lots of anticipation about the coming day.
In Dillon Great Harvest Bread Co. is head quartered. Stopped by what I thought was the store, turns out to be their training bakery. They handed me 3 large loaves of bread. We ate a loaf out at the campground that night in the RV.
Saturday 7-17-10 The big day
Vern (78 yrs old farmer from IA), Lori and myself got up and were heading out of the campground by 5:30 to head down the road on what was to be an 87 mile ride. We beat the head winds by leaving early. at mile 33 we came to the last town before the pass, Grant MT. There is an old bar / lodge / motel. Stopped and had a breakfast where eventually the whole group met up and had an impromptu breakfast cooked by a young guy from California who is part owner of the place. It was your stereotypical old country hunting lodge with heavy 3” thick front door, mountings on the walls and various local brands burned into the walls. We rode from there about 9 miles where the road to the pass (12 miles of gravel going from about 6500 ft.). Up to about the last 3 miles it wasn’t to bad riding. It was like riding through postcards, absolutely beautiful. Wish Marta and the kids could be here doing it. Finally made it to the top with much effort bringing up the rear. We all had small cups of champagne at the top. My bottom bracket (where the crank goes through) is pretty shot, grinding real bad. Several of us rode down to what is called Sajawea spring (this is very near the top of the pass) which is considered the head waters (one of several) of the Beaverhead River which makes up the main flow of the Jefferson. The peak also represents the continental divide, one side flows east to the Atlantic, the other to the Pacific.
Riding down was also quite the adventure. You would think it would be easy, not the grade of the downhill and gravel for about 11 miles to the main road 28, steepest grade I have ever seen. They let only bikes and cars down it. The RV had to go another, longer road down. Had to stop a couple times to let my rims cool down. Got down to the main road with 19 miles into Salmon ID, mostly down hill but with grinding bottom bracket and a head wind kept the speed to around 12-14 MPH. Stopped at a store where the dirt road and main road in meet. A 91 year old lady that has had the store for 62 years was fun to talk with. Sacajewea was actually born near by and her ancestors still lived there and would spend time in the store. One of the mysteries about Sacajewea is how long she lived. Many people believe she died out east at a young age. The indians in the store she said she died an old lady out west there. Who to believe. It was quite the day getting into Salmon a little after 7:00 PM..
Sunday 7-18-10
Larry, Julie’s husband who has been driving a van up and down the route checking things out and giving us water and Gatorade (saved me a couple of times the last few days) is heading home, to Pierre SD. He dropped me off in Bozeman where Marta and kids are spending the night with Lynn and Eric. Got there in time for breakfast. We bought Lynn’s Bianchi for Emma to ride. A very nice bike.
Spending the night in Missoula at the Broadway Inn, Priceline - $63. Tomorrow we take the bike in and then head up to Kalispel to visit Marta’s friends Desi and Brad.
Added 7-21-10
Monday 7-19-10
I got my bottom bracket fixed at Missoula Bike Works, replaced a spoke in the rear wheel and had a slow leak fixed in the front tire as well all for $65.00. For the bottom
bracket they had a terrible time getting it out, thought it was put in backwards. As it turns out it was in correct but one that was used for only a short time. They got it out and replaced it with a more standard one.
We finally made it to Wayfare State park on Flathead lake. We wandered around Bigforks which it is close to, mostly a tourist hamlet for the evening. Went to Brookies Cookies, tried a few of their cookies. They had a Cadillac Cookie which was a cookie with different chocolate chips in it, pecans, walnuts and almonds and oats. It was pretty good, probably could have stayed with just one nut. The Snickerdoodle was just a plain sugar cookie with cinnamon on top.
Tuesday 7-20-10
Slept late and then headed up to Glacier Park and the Going to the Sun road and Logan Pass. Really something. Very narrow road. When we finally got a parking place (15 minute wait) we head up to Hidden Lake overlook about 3 miles. Andrew and Emma lead the way. Marta stopped at a large snow field which covered the trail for about 1 mile. I went ahead to try and catch A & E. Found Emma, Andrew had out distanced her and continued on to the lake by himself and without water, 2 big No No’s, and he didn’t tell us. I sent Emma back to Mom and tried to spot Andrew through some borrowed binoculars, from a nice family from Huntington Beach CA., the husbands name was Andrew as well. They had seen Andrew, one of their daughters recognized him because of the DSI he is using to take pictures. After waiting and fretting I proceeded down the trail a ways, seeing many Mountain goats up very close, not to afraid of people. When I was at a point where I could see most of the trail going down to the lake ansd not seeing him I figured he had either gone off the trail or gotten by me somehow heading back to the visitor center. Got back up to the peak of the trail and borrowed some other binoculars and spotted him walking with someone up the path so I headed back to the VC, greatly releived. I got plenty of hiking in. They got back about 15 minutes behind me. Andrews new found friend was Gary Moore a music teacher from the area that knew the trails well. Turns out they had walked down the path along the river a ways, then headed back.
We then headed back to Kalispel and Desi and Brads and Glacier Nursery, their business. It was a great to finally meet them. Also met two of their kids, Catlin (18) and Collin (20 something). Had Yak burgers for dinner. Headed back to the campground about 10:30. Gate is locked at 10:00 and you need a pass code to get in which we didn’t have, didn’t think we would be getting back this late. We tracked down a cop to see if they would have a code which they did. The end to a busy day.
Wed 7-21-10
Marta and I got up a little early and headed to find a place to get the transmission fluid replaced, as coming down the Going to the Sun Road in third gear to help with the braking we started to smell. ended up in Kalispel to get that done. The Toyota deal got on it right away and got it flushed, cleaned out and refilled in about an hour. Called ahead and the kids had the camper about closed up and ready to go. Drove the 2+ hours back to Missoula and am at a Starbucks doing this, while Marta and Andrew catch up on their computer work for work and Composition class. Then we head to LoLo Hot Springs at the base of the pass we bike tomorrow.
7-13-10 The boat tour of the Gates of the Mountains was a wonderful trip. Stephanie Ambrosse Tubbs, author and daughter of Steven Ambrose author of “Undaunting Courage” - a book on the Lewis & Clark trip. The boat ride was spectacular going down the narrow river, the Missouri that cuts through the mountains.
Wednesday 7-14-10
Today we rode to Three Forks (65 miles) where the Jefferson (has by far the most flow, we would call it the Missouri, figure they had to name something after the president), the Madison (secretary of State) and about a mile down river the Galiton (secretary of Treasury) come together. We rode in the RV out to where the Jefferson and Madison come together to form the Missouri. This was the first day we saw snow capped mountains.
Thursday 7-15-10
We rode from Three Forks to Whitehall (32 miles) a small town on the way to Dillon MT. This was a nice short day but had a head wind slight up hill.
Friday 7-16-10
We rode to Dillon MT, (55 miles) all day head wind. Long day, stopped in the small town of Silver Star. Had a neat store ( 1 of 2) with lots of books on survival, history and nature. The other store had nicknacks with very interesting and expensive clocks. There was a lot of talk about who was riding up out first pass - Lemhi, 7373 ft and who was riding down, Lots of anticipation about the coming day.
In Dillon Great Harvest Bread Co. is head quartered. Stopped by what I thought was the store, turns out to be their training bakery. They handed me 3 large loaves of bread. We ate a loaf out at the campground that night in the RV.
Saturday 7-17-10 The big day
Vern (78 yrs old farmer from IA), Lori and myself got up and were heading out of the campground by 5:30 to head down the road on what was to be an 87 mile ride. We beat the head winds by leaving early. at mile 33 we came to the last town before the pass, Grant MT. There is an old bar / lodge / motel. Stopped and had a breakfast where eventually the whole group met up and had an impromptu breakfast cooked by a young guy from California who is part owner of the place. It was your stereotypical old country hunting lodge with heavy 3” thick front door, mountings on the walls and various local brands burned into the walls. We rode from there about 9 miles where the road to the pass (12 miles of gravel going from about 6500 ft.). Up to about the last 3 miles it wasn’t to bad riding. It was like riding through postcards, absolutely beautiful. Wish Marta and the kids could be here doing it. Finally made it to the top with much effort bringing up the rear. We all had small cups of champagne at the top. My bottom bracket (where the crank goes through) is pretty shot, grinding real bad. Several of us rode down to what is called Sajawea spring (this is very near the top of the pass) which is considered the head waters (one of several) of the Beaverhead River which makes up the main flow of the Jefferson. The peak also represents the continental divide, one side flows east to the Atlantic, the other to the Pacific.
Riding down was also quite the adventure. You would think it would be easy, not the grade of the downhill and gravel for about 11 miles to the main road 28, steepest grade I have ever seen. They let only bikes and cars down it. The RV had to go another, longer road down. Had to stop a couple times to let my rims cool down. Got down to the main road with 19 miles into Salmon ID, mostly down hill but with grinding bottom bracket and a head wind kept the speed to around 12-14 MPH. Stopped at a store where the dirt road and main road in meet. A 91 year old lady that has had the store for 62 years was fun to talk with. Sacajewea was actually born near by and her ancestors still lived there and would spend time in the store. One of the mysteries about Sacajewea is how long she lived. Many people believe she died out east at a young age. The indians in the store she said she died an old lady out west there. Who to believe. It was quite the day getting into Salmon a little after 7:00 PM..
Sunday 7-18-10
Larry, Julie’s husband who has been driving a van up and down the route checking things out and giving us water and Gatorade (saved me a couple of times the last few days) is heading home, to Pierre SD. He dropped me off in Bozeman where Marta and kids are spending the night with Lynn and Eric. Got there in time for breakfast. We bought Lynn’s Bianchi for Emma to ride. A very nice bike.
Spending the night in Missoula at the Broadway Inn, Priceline - $63. Tomorrow we take the bike in and then head up to Kalispel to visit Marta’s friends Desi and Brad.
Added 7-21-10
Monday 7-19-10
I got my bottom bracket fixed at Missoula Bike Works, replaced a spoke in the rear wheel and had a slow leak fixed in the front tire as well all for $65.00. For the bottom
bracket they had a terrible time getting it out, thought it was put in backwards. As it turns out it was in correct but one that was used for only a short time. They got it out and replaced it with a more standard one.
We finally made it to Wayfare State park on Flathead lake. We wandered around Bigforks which it is close to, mostly a tourist hamlet for the evening. Went to Brookies Cookies, tried a few of their cookies. They had a Cadillac Cookie which was a cookie with different chocolate chips in it, pecans, walnuts and almonds and oats. It was pretty good, probably could have stayed with just one nut. The Snickerdoodle was just a plain sugar cookie with cinnamon on top.
Tuesday 7-20-10
Slept late and then headed up to Glacier Park and the Going to the Sun road and Logan Pass. Really something. Very narrow road. When we finally got a parking place (15 minute wait) we head up to Hidden Lake overlook about 3 miles. Andrew and Emma lead the way. Marta stopped at a large snow field which covered the trail for about 1 mile. I went ahead to try and catch A & E. Found Emma, Andrew had out distanced her and continued on to the lake by himself and without water, 2 big No No’s, and he didn’t tell us. I sent Emma back to Mom and tried to spot Andrew through some borrowed binoculars, from a nice family from Huntington Beach CA., the husbands name was Andrew as well. They had seen Andrew, one of their daughters recognized him because of the DSI he is using to take pictures. After waiting and fretting I proceeded down the trail a ways, seeing many Mountain goats up very close, not to afraid of people. When I was at a point where I could see most of the trail going down to the lake ansd not seeing him I figured he had either gone off the trail or gotten by me somehow heading back to the visitor center. Got back up to the peak of the trail and borrowed some other binoculars and spotted him walking with someone up the path so I headed back to the VC, greatly releived. I got plenty of hiking in. They got back about 15 minutes behind me. Andrews new found friend was Gary Moore a music teacher from the area that knew the trails well. Turns out they had walked down the path along the river a ways, then headed back.
We then headed back to Kalispel and Desi and Brads and Glacier Nursery, their business. It was a great to finally meet them. Also met two of their kids, Catlin (18) and Collin (20 something). Had Yak burgers for dinner. Headed back to the campground about 10:30. Gate is locked at 10:00 and you need a pass code to get in which we didn’t have, didn’t think we would be getting back this late. We tracked down a cop to see if they would have a code which they did. The end to a busy day.
Wed 7-21-10
Marta and I got up a little early and headed to find a place to get the transmission fluid replaced, as coming down the Going to the Sun Road in third gear to help with the braking we started to smell. ended up in Kalispel to get that done. The Toyota deal got on it right away and got it flushed, cleaned out and refilled in about an hour. Called ahead and the kids had the camper about closed up and ready to go. Drove the 2+ hours back to Missoula and am at a Starbucks doing this, while Marta and Andrew catch up on their computer work for work and Composition class. Then we head to LoLo Hot Springs at the base of the pass we bike tomorrow.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
7-13-10
Thur. 7-8-10
Ended up sharing a campsite with Chris from Jefferson City MO.. He is riding from Antecortes WA to Jefferson City for a fund raiser for MO DOT workers families that have been killed doing road work. He crossed MT and to Bismark in about 4 days doing no less than about 120 miles per day due to the great tail wind.
Rode 12 ml., around Bismark on their excellent trail system. They have about 100 miles of trails around the city. Rode down a long the MO river and saw their L&C exhibit and steam boat exhibit.
Got picked up by Lori and family in the RV around 2:30. We drove over to Glendive MT. Camped out there. The next day we joined up with the Van pulling the bike trailer.
Friday 7-9-10
We meet up with the van and bike trailer in Lewistown MT and had lunch. We looked in a small museum and they had an exhibit on Yogo saphires, the ones used in Marta’s wedding ring. That evening we had a bus ride out to Decision Point where L&C had to decide which river was the Missouri. They chose right, the option was the Marias River. We then had a nice dinner at the local dinner and then a tour of Ft Benton reconstruction. They had an excellent speaker explaining the exhibits. He pointed out that this trading post prospered due to the arrangement they had with the indians. They had the indians do the trapping and such then sell to the post. The indians did not want the white man going out into the land. Very interesting. The post had the oldest occupied structure in the state.
Saturday 7-10-10
First day of biking with the group. We did 45 ml to Great Falls with a head wind most of the way. Ended up going about the same pace as Julie (taller than my friend Julia W. from PA, didn’t ask how tall she is Julia :)) We made it in pretty good time. That evening we had a bus tour of Great Falls, lots of neat big old houses from the late 1800’s, early 1900’s. Stayed at Ursaline Community Center, and old Catholic school, very pretty.
Sunday 7-11-10
We biked 60 ml to Wolf Creek, mostly down hill with side or tail wind. The perfect biking day. Stopped several places to rest and talk. Beautiful canyon about the last 1/2 the way.
Monday 7-12-10
Biked from Wolf Creek to Helena up over a c1000ft hill. I took the van over. did only 17 miles. The first were half down the canyon the other was on I15 as it was the only road. Luckily not real busy. Met with Mary Musial, Marta’s friend from her days with WIC. She is heading out Tuesday to IA for her dad’s 90th. BD. We are going to try and meet up when Marta gets out here. We are staying at Carroll College a Catholic College, beautiful old building.
Tuesday 7-13-10
Rest day here in Helena. catching up on this blog and going on a boat tour to Gates of the Mountains tonight.
Thur. 7-8-10
Ended up sharing a campsite with Chris from Jefferson City MO.. He is riding from Antecortes WA to Jefferson City for a fund raiser for MO DOT workers families that have been killed doing road work. He crossed MT and to Bismark in about 4 days doing no less than about 120 miles per day due to the great tail wind.
Rode 12 ml., around Bismark on their excellent trail system. They have about 100 miles of trails around the city. Rode down a long the MO river and saw their L&C exhibit and steam boat exhibit.
Got picked up by Lori and family in the RV around 2:30. We drove over to Glendive MT. Camped out there. The next day we joined up with the Van pulling the bike trailer.
Friday 7-9-10
We meet up with the van and bike trailer in Lewistown MT and had lunch. We looked in a small museum and they had an exhibit on Yogo saphires, the ones used in Marta’s wedding ring. That evening we had a bus ride out to Decision Point where L&C had to decide which river was the Missouri. They chose right, the option was the Marias River. We then had a nice dinner at the local dinner and then a tour of Ft Benton reconstruction. They had an excellent speaker explaining the exhibits. He pointed out that this trading post prospered due to the arrangement they had with the indians. They had the indians do the trapping and such then sell to the post. The indians did not want the white man going out into the land. Very interesting. The post had the oldest occupied structure in the state.
Saturday 7-10-10
First day of biking with the group. We did 45 ml to Great Falls with a head wind most of the way. Ended up going about the same pace as Julie (taller than my friend Julia W. from PA, didn’t ask how tall she is Julia :)) We made it in pretty good time. That evening we had a bus tour of Great Falls, lots of neat big old houses from the late 1800’s, early 1900’s. Stayed at Ursaline Community Center, and old Catholic school, very pretty.
Sunday 7-11-10
We biked 60 ml to Wolf Creek, mostly down hill with side or tail wind. The perfect biking day. Stopped several places to rest and talk. Beautiful canyon about the last 1/2 the way.
Monday 7-12-10
Biked from Wolf Creek to Helena up over a c1000ft hill. I took the van over. did only 17 miles. The first were half down the canyon the other was on I15 as it was the only road. Luckily not real busy. Met with Mary Musial, Marta’s friend from her days with WIC. She is heading out Tuesday to IA for her dad’s 90th. BD. We are going to try and meet up when Marta gets out here. We are staying at Carroll College a Catholic College, beautiful old building.
Tuesday 7-13-10
Rest day here in Helena. catching up on this blog and going on a boat tour to Gates of the Mountains tonight.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Sunday 7-4-10
Well the kids are heading back to home from Cornerstone, so Marta won’t be alone in the house anymore.
Rode today from Pierre to 14ml west of Gettysburg to Bob’s Resort at the intersection of SD 1804 and Fed hwy 212. Did about 55ml with varying head winds as the route took some right turns, enjoyed about 7 ml of a side wind which help a bit. Left at 7:30, got here about 4:30. Stopped and topped off the water at Oahe Speedway and watch some preliminary drag racing heats. Talking with one of the racers, some are hitting 140-150 mph in the 1/4 mile. It was a nice break. Saw a few deer, couple fawns. I think I saw Sugar beet plants. miles of them and wheat. The fields go on forever here, especially when you are biking into a head wind.
Going to explore if there are any short cuts to Bismark. Going the main roads looking at an atlas it looks like it should be round 150 miles. the route looks like about 200 miles.
7-7-10
Monday 7-5-10
Rode from Bob’s Resort to Herreid SD. just shy of the border. Got in 69 miles with little head and a little tail wind until the last 8 miles from Mound City. Had a steady stronge head wind the whole way. Stopped in a lounge in Herreid to learn where I could camp, was told there was one just on the north side of town. It was a field with mostly weeds and gravel, not very nice and a crazy price -$20. What to do? I road up to the C-store just up a little ways from the campground. got to talking with some locals Jim N., I asked if anyone would mind if I camped in back of the lumber yard next to the C-store. He gave me the name of the owner, figuring he wouldn’t mind so I gave him a call and he said fine. It all worked out, I brought him a plate of doughnuts from the C-store the next morning to show my appreciation.
Got up early that day, Tuesday when I looked out my tent window and saw the sky. Looked like it could rain any moment. Got going and managed to dodge the rain for about the first 20 miles and no wind. Then I got the rain and a little wind. Fortunately the rain was pretty light. You could see it coming down heavier to the south west and north east. The rain let up for a while then caught up with me later. This was a little heavier. I made it to Hazelton ND, 49 ml.. There was no where further down the road to go. so ended up stopping around 2:00. Stopped by the city park where they had advertised camping. The sign had a $2.00 with a “1” over the $ sign so I called the number on the sign next to it. Spoke with Hadley Seeklander, before I could say much his wife or daughter in the background told him to have me over for a late lunch (they had seen me biking up from Herreid). We had a great lunch spread of leftovers from the 4th of July party the day before. The company was especially welcome and the hamburger hit the spot. They also said pay $8 if I wanted, that would be fine. The camping fee’s it seems is an issue in town. I paid $10, perhaps a little high but the hospitality made it worth it.
This is Marta’s and mine 20th anniversary, so I made sure to send her flowers and a picture text. She enjoyed them both I think.
Wednesday 7-7-10
Today I made it to Bismark. on the way meet some other bikers doing part of the route.
They are teachers Nat and Deb from New Orleans. Nat is semi retired physics teacher, and Deb is not yet retired history teacher.
Just outside Bismark is the University of Mary, a Catholic 4 year college. Also home to the Benedictine Annunciation Monastery. It is perched a top a bluff overlooking the valley. Beautiful. I caught the tail end of lunch in the cafeteria as well.
There was a bit of squeaking going on (more than usual) down in the crank area so I rode from the General Sibly campground where I will be spending the night tonight in to the Kirkwood Mall where I will be piked up by the group tomorrow. There is a huge sporting goods store there Sheelds (spelled wrong) with a bike shop. Turns out one of my pedals was about ready to fall appart given the bearings were so worn. Hopefully this is it and not the bottom bracket bearing.
Doing laundry now and catching up on the blog here. Tomorrow mostly rest and on to Ft Benton MT..
Well the kids are heading back to home from Cornerstone, so Marta won’t be alone in the house anymore.
Rode today from Pierre to 14ml west of Gettysburg to Bob’s Resort at the intersection of SD 1804 and Fed hwy 212. Did about 55ml with varying head winds as the route took some right turns, enjoyed about 7 ml of a side wind which help a bit. Left at 7:30, got here about 4:30. Stopped and topped off the water at Oahe Speedway and watch some preliminary drag racing heats. Talking with one of the racers, some are hitting 140-150 mph in the 1/4 mile. It was a nice break. Saw a few deer, couple fawns. I think I saw Sugar beet plants. miles of them and wheat. The fields go on forever here, especially when you are biking into a head wind.
Going to explore if there are any short cuts to Bismark. Going the main roads looking at an atlas it looks like it should be round 150 miles. the route looks like about 200 miles.
7-7-10
Monday 7-5-10
Rode from Bob’s Resort to Herreid SD. just shy of the border. Got in 69 miles with little head and a little tail wind until the last 8 miles from Mound City. Had a steady stronge head wind the whole way. Stopped in a lounge in Herreid to learn where I could camp, was told there was one just on the north side of town. It was a field with mostly weeds and gravel, not very nice and a crazy price -$20. What to do? I road up to the C-store just up a little ways from the campground. got to talking with some locals Jim N., I asked if anyone would mind if I camped in back of the lumber yard next to the C-store. He gave me the name of the owner, figuring he wouldn’t mind so I gave him a call and he said fine. It all worked out, I brought him a plate of doughnuts from the C-store the next morning to show my appreciation.
Got up early that day, Tuesday when I looked out my tent window and saw the sky. Looked like it could rain any moment. Got going and managed to dodge the rain for about the first 20 miles and no wind. Then I got the rain and a little wind. Fortunately the rain was pretty light. You could see it coming down heavier to the south west and north east. The rain let up for a while then caught up with me later. This was a little heavier. I made it to Hazelton ND, 49 ml.. There was no where further down the road to go. so ended up stopping around 2:00. Stopped by the city park where they had advertised camping. The sign had a $2.00 with a “1” over the $ sign so I called the number on the sign next to it. Spoke with Hadley Seeklander, before I could say much his wife or daughter in the background told him to have me over for a late lunch (they had seen me biking up from Herreid). We had a great lunch spread of leftovers from the 4th of July party the day before. The company was especially welcome and the hamburger hit the spot. They also said pay $8 if I wanted, that would be fine. The camping fee’s it seems is an issue in town. I paid $10, perhaps a little high but the hospitality made it worth it.
This is Marta’s and mine 20th anniversary, so I made sure to send her flowers and a picture text. She enjoyed them both I think.
Wednesday 7-7-10
Today I made it to Bismark. on the way meet some other bikers doing part of the route.
They are teachers Nat and Deb from New Orleans. Nat is semi retired physics teacher, and Deb is not yet retired history teacher.
Just outside Bismark is the University of Mary, a Catholic 4 year college. Also home to the Benedictine Annunciation Monastery. It is perched a top a bluff overlooking the valley. Beautiful. I caught the tail end of lunch in the cafeteria as well.
There was a bit of squeaking going on (more than usual) down in the crank area so I rode from the General Sibly campground where I will be spending the night tonight in to the Kirkwood Mall where I will be piked up by the group tomorrow. There is a huge sporting goods store there Sheelds (spelled wrong) with a bike shop. Turns out one of my pedals was about ready to fall appart given the bearings were so worn. Hopefully this is it and not the bottom bracket bearing.
Doing laundry now and catching up on the blog here. Tomorrow mostly rest and on to Ft Benton MT..
Monday, June 28, 2010
Sunday 6-27-10
Made it to Pierre. 61 ml with a head wind that got worse is the day wore on. This was pretty much without services the whole way. About ml 11 at Stephan there was a c-store and house, closed on Sundays. Luckily at ml 35 there was an old building with cars out front, looked closed. They were open and I was able to get a drink and snack and refill my bottles. It took about 5 1/2 hours to get the remaining 26 miles. Ran into a storm that had been blown out of town as I got close to Pierre. Had 30 to 40 mph winds and drizzle for about 5 minutes as the front passed by. Had no wind for the last 3 miles into town. Moteled (Capitol Inn, $44, just down from the capitol) it again since I would be needing one for Monday night and Saturday night when I get back from Cincinnati.
Monday 6-28-10
Rest day in Pierre. Took the bike to the bike shop (Bike & Paddle, 605-224-8955), he is going to hold the bike until Saturday and fix the 2 broken spokes in the back wheel. I can keep my packs at the hotel.
Made it to Pierre. 61 ml with a head wind that got worse is the day wore on. This was pretty much without services the whole way. About ml 11 at Stephan there was a c-store and house, closed on Sundays. Luckily at ml 35 there was an old building with cars out front, looked closed. They were open and I was able to get a drink and snack and refill my bottles. It took about 5 1/2 hours to get the remaining 26 miles. Ran into a storm that had been blown out of town as I got close to Pierre. Had 30 to 40 mph winds and drizzle for about 5 minutes as the front passed by. Had no wind for the last 3 miles into town. Moteled (Capitol Inn, $44, just down from the capitol) it again since I would be needing one for Monday night and Saturday night when I get back from Cincinnati.
Monday 6-28-10
Rest day in Pierre. Took the bike to the bike shop (Bike & Paddle, 605-224-8955), he is going to hold the bike until Saturday and fix the 2 broken spokes in the back wheel. I can keep my packs at the hotel.
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